Story

This is a story I found that every surfer needs to read.

I started surfing as a lark. I lived by the beach in Santa Monica and had learned to body surf at Sorrento (Neenies - Famous Weenies) and State Beach.

I had just graduated from Samohi and was going to Santa Monica City College (1956).

A friend talked me into trying board surfing.

I borrowed a home made board from a girl friend's father who was a fireman. The board was a small balsa with a skeg that looked like a boomerang.

It was late afternoon when my friend and I arrived at Malibu. No one was in the water and the waves were tiny little lines breaking at the point.

I got the board out of the car and as I passed a car parked at the curb with it's doors open on the beach side, a voice came out of the darkness, "You can do it, boy".

I glanced in the direction of the voice and saw this big guy lounging in the back seat of this huge sedan. I was so self-conscious I just smiled and lowered my head and continued down the path to the beach. I found out later that the voice belonged to Tube Steak "King of Malibu".

I rubbed some paraffin on the deck of the board and walked into the water with it. I floated the board then tried to lay down on it. Oops!

Flipped right over!

I laughed at myself and how silly I must have looked. I kept trying until I got my sense of balance and started paddling out toward the waves. I don't remember if I caught any waves that first day but I did "pearl" a lot and lost the board on the rocks and learned how hard it is to walk on slippery barnacle covered rocks at low tide.

I kept at it but the borrowed board was really too small for me. I bought a used Velzy-Jacobs "Pig" and finally learned what it felt like to catch a wave and stand up.

It was so much fun and better than body surfing so I went surfing every chance I got.

At first I went for the fun of it but got hooked on the whole scene and started hanging out at Malibu where I met a bunch of great (and crazy) guys and girls.

I became a fairly good surfer and enjoyed the summer fun we all had together.

I remember those rare summer days when it got 6 - 8 ft., glassy and perfect shape.

The only problem with those days was that the word spread quickly and anyone with a board showed up at the beach. It got crowded and lots of people didn't know how to surf very well.

I was a regular at Malibu and when these kooks started taking off in front of me and didn't know how to turn they'd screw up every wave they tried to ride. Everyone got mad at these guys but they were so stupid they didn't care. They just kept getting in the way.

I know it is a pain when people always get in your way but man you just got to get over it and ride!!!